In order to revive the clutter and overdone pieces the last NYFW left behind, the high fashion world is looking to artistic subcultures for inspiration. Art and fashion have always had an intimate relationship, but in 2016, designers sought to redefine the industry. Beyond the union of aesthetics and apparel, some creatives are infusing social justice and environmental activism into their work. It is no question the spearheads of the runway – many just shy of 25 – are coming into view with a memorable bang. Don’t be surprised when adaptations of these styles make their way into local retail stores.
The demographic free fashion label, Phlemuns, was started by James Flemons in Los Angeles, California. The clothes reimagine an ’80s and ’90s fashion climate with roots in recycling and ethical manufacturing. The label also pays homage to gender fluidity by marketing themselves as demographic free.
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Vaquera emerged this year amidst the New York City Art Scene. Their designs are the answers to your childhood tea party dress-up fantasy with romantic billowed sleeves and lace. The creators choose to style their clothes on artists of all gender identifications, radiating an image reminiscent of 18th century Renaissance art with Victorian notes.
Claire Barrow is a fashion designer and artist who brings Basquiat-inspired graffiti to womenswear. Barrow uses her artistic abilities to sew patches and paint unique designs on her fabrics. She also harnesses her creativity to bring a new definition to the skill of styling.
A photo posted by Yeha Leung (@creepyyeha) on
Creepyeha, designed by Yeha Lung in NYC, is creating a whole new standard for luxury lingerie and jewelry. All pieces are handmade with the utmost intricacy – not a single a stud, garter or harness strap is out of place. Yeha’s creations ooze mystery, seduction and empowerment, which is guaranteed to bring out your inner femme fatale.
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Eckhaus Latta has only had a couple offical fashion shows, but they’ve managed to garner international attention and almost 30,000 followers on Instagram. Their most recent collection features gentle minimalist layers of mustard velvet and taupe. Eckhaus Latta is known for its Margiela-esque styling decisions by using structure to break up heavy fabric.
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The Corner Store is a virtual vintage store. The owner, stylist, makeup artist and thrift hunter, Stacy Nishimoto, updates the store’s Instagram with unique high-end vintage pieces for sale every day. She pulls inspiration for her photoshoots from ancient art and flowing Iranian style dress. Nishimoto manages to meld feminine frills and bonnets with an avant garde edge.
A photo posted by Ryan LO Studio ?❤️?? 少女心事 (@ryanlostudio) on
Ryan Lo Studio had its first show in 2013, but the label gained some major attention after his AW 16 collection. The show transported viewers to a whimsical world of ’60s mod makeup, floral prints and doll-like hair styling.
If you like tulle in any shape or form, then you will be entranced by Molly Goddard’s clothing line. Each dreamy masterpiece is intricately designed with plenty of ruffles and transparent layers for just the right amount of sensuality. Goddard’s designs have even been worn by various celebrities such as Rihanna.
A photo posted by Dilara Findikoglu (@dilarafindikoglu) on
Dilara Findikoglu, a London-based Turkish designer, physically imagines the union of anarchism and glam rock in this collection. His pieces are heavily inspired by punk subculture and its ideologies. Findikoglu’s sews a radical message into the seams of each piece, allowing wearers to make a statement.
In order to remain a genderless, non-demographic brand, the designer of 69 chooses to be anonymous. The label is known for its complex frayed denim creations.
